Saturday, June 30, 2012

"You need to go to a natural hot spring in Japan"

I am in N' by myself this weekend. I didn't want the weekend to pass by without something significant and special taking place. Consequently, I decided this was the perfect weekend to try out an onsen. I worked up the nerve and looked for a place... only to find they are 90 minutes away. Onsen are everywhere in Japan... but there is a nice bubble of space around N' that lacks these natural, sulfer-heated hot springs.


Friday, June 29, 2012

Long hours in my Japanese Lab

She works hard for the okane
So hard for it hani
She works hard for the okane
So you better treat her sonotoori

I was in lab until 11:30pm last night: a Friday night. I had gone in the the intentions of doing something which would have had me leaving around 6pm but then had a change of plans which required me to both work more hours and be more active during those hours. I didn't mind too much though because where was I going to go alone?

I was told that Japanese work very long hours, especially late into the night: that they take a long lunch and the lab is their social life. I can see it now. That is very much how my lab is. And I actually understand it. Why do I need to go home? Why would I want to go home? The people I know, who are pleasant company conveniently, are my labmates.

I also understand international students and employees better now. My 10+ hour days are a regular thing here.

We had a THREE HOUR lab meeting today. My boss schedules it for Friday's late afternoon-evening. Guess there will never be the chance to leave early on a Friday :-/ I'm presenting in two weeks :-o And again at a Monday meeting, three weeks from now :-o

I do like that I'm getting so much accomplished, while feeling like I am on vacation. Why can't every day be like this back home?


For your amusement, please check out the protocol I had to follow in lab recently. The notes on the page are mine. Thankfully, it is a kit and kits are simple; also, I have followed a similar protocol back in my home lab. But still :-p

Kitchen frustrations

What is with the complete lack of ovens in this town? The way that cities with dense populations, in apartment housing, having community gardens, I believe there should be community ovens.

I want so badly to cook meals and desserts for the people here. I would love to make them enchiladas, or something they could never find here. I wish I could bake them cookies. There is a complete lack of cookies in this country. I wish I could do something special for them.

All of there desserts LOOK soooo delicious but they all taste bland and the same. I do enjoy the red-bean boba drinks or green tea ice creams back home but to have those types of flavors be the norm here is not ideal. Let's have a cookie stuffed with beans! Let's have cream-filled pastry that tastes like... nothing. Blah. Where is some fried ice cream when you want it?! Where is an oven for me to make my own? I was trying to think of ways to make them something that didn't involve baking and remembered the Nutella no-bake cookies... and then that I have never seen Nutella in any of the grocery stores I have visited.

I acquired the ingredients to make a delicious shrimp dish and looked for a large bag of frozen shrimp. I cannot find anything like it around. I have, however, seen packages of four whole shrimp. I'm really bad about tearing the heads off of animals. I would prefer to have things arrive no longer looking like the original being.

I have had some delicious seafood here, and at such great prices. I have had some delicious chicken here also. I have, however, not had one delicious desert here. Actually, that isn't true, I had a 1x2" piece of cake at orientation that was delicious. They served it ONE night. B' went back for 4 more and left it so that many did not get any. I have* found a chocolate-covered grahmn cracker item for only 90yen ($1.17) in the convenience store. I have purchased 3 O:-) K' said I have a sweet-tooth. Really, all I keep is Nutella to spread on fruit at my home in the US. I do enjoy a good desert but not of the sugary sort, more of the creamy sort, and I do not have them often. It is the perpetual quest to satisfy the desire that makes me seem like I have a sweet-tooth here. Why must they all LOOK so delicious? It is all about presentation here and looks can be deceiving.

I think I will try to make mochi for them. I can fill it with whatever I wish. I wish this country had some chocolate :-p For information on what this desert is like, see the Wiki page. Rice-deserts?... See what I am dealing with here?!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mochi

International Post, post 2

I posted, previously, a request for addresses; with the understanding that another location might be better to send them to than a blog. I received no reply. This is fine. My concern is, I was told addresses were posted but I see none. Soooo, that leaves me concerned about comments in general. There are only three total, also fine, but a bummer if they really were posted but never show up. 

So, send me your addresses :-) 

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Converting units

Someone asked me, on Monday, what my height was. I started saying 5ft... then trailed off b/c I have no idea how tall I am in meters and feet would mean nothing to him. So I did the conversions.

Height: 171.4cm

While staying with my host-family they keep feeding me so, much, food. And at orientation there was an endless supply. I spent that week feeling perpetually-stuffed. I learned the Japanese word for full stomach: mou taberarenai. I was convinced I had gained 5lbs with all this food so I weighed myself on the host-family scale. I had to go online and use a conversion tool to have any idea what that number meant.

Weight: 57.5kg

While I'm on a roll, I need to get a better idea of how many liters to consume.
64oz = 1.9L
8oz= 0.24L= 240mL
12oz= 0.35L= 350mL

I have a better grasp on miles to meters, because of 5K/10K/marathon races.
1km= 0.62mi
1mi= 1.61km

Why is it that saying one's weight is a taboo secret for women, but saying it in a "foreign" measurement system seems to make it still innocuous?

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Getting to know my coworkers


I cannot understand when people speak here. I can pick out some Japanese words that I know as well those that are derived from foreign words that are shared world-wide. Today someone kept saying my name so I knew he was talking about me. I could tell it wasn't in a negative way but I was curious what he was saying. He has been really great about looking up things in English and discussing them with others and then trying them out on me. At lunch he said he use to work in a restaurant making Udon noodles and would make me some for lunch tomorrow. Now he is making noodles for the WHOLE lab :-) So that time he kept saying my name, he was looking up English translations for how to communicate this. There is another girl who looks up words to communicate. She is super adorable. Both of these students are more outgoing in general. I do not think it is a cooincidence that they are the two with interresting hobbies: ice hockey (guy) and flying engineless biplanes (girl). Everybody else in the lab has a hobby of reading, watching movies, drinking, watching sports or playing an asian board/card game (only one hobby per person). These two students are my favorite :-) Flying gliders: riding air drafts like a bird, up, up, up? That is pretty badass. They remind me of me/ many Americans: more willing to take on new things out of their comfort zone/ expertise. They have also invited me to do fun things around town. I don't know if they know just how rare and awesome they are here. Side note, I would bet money that they end up dating.

Update* The Udon Noodles were amazing. I had thought it would just be noodles but when I arrived for lunch, other items had been brought in also and it had become a lunch party. It was very kind of them. I cried a little inside :-)
Some of my lab members at the Udon party. Mr Noodle is the second from the left.  


I began in the lab last Wednesday. We had a welcome party on Monday. It is awkward to have a party throw, specifically to welcome you, at a restaurant (though way less awkward than throwing a party for yourself for any occasion). The badass girl organized it. Until Monday, I wasn't sure who was in my lab. The majority of folks were not around much or didn't talk to me. Post-party, everybody is super nice and friendly. It is strange to me that the Japanese education system involves reading and writing in English from grade-school but no listening or speaking. Consequently, it is super-difficult to communicate. I really think they need to change the education format so all their time would be made more useful/applicable.

I'm trying to learn Japanese. Considering our lunches, and how much my life revolves around food, I expect to be fully-versed in all things food-related :-) I went to lunch, on Sunday, with two others from "Amerika." We got through the entire lunch using our limited Japanese to communicate with the restaurant staff. It was fun. I was proud of us.

International perspective

Three other countries are supported by the the Japanese Society for the Promotion of Science. During the orientation week, I was fortunate to spend time with folks from England (+1 from Ireland), Canada, France, and Germany. The latter two countries didn't mix with the rest of us much so I did not get to know them very well, unfortunately. I had the most fun spending time with the Brits and became good buddies with B', from London, England. He invited me to visit and offered to be my guide. I would love to visit England. If I was going there, I would also want to hit up Italy, Spain, and France (think the trip to the island of Ireland would be too much to add if it was a shorter trip). Maybe I could hit Germany also? I think more time in fewer counties might be better. If I went, I would want a travel buddy. Advertisement for travel buddies* ;-)

During orientation, the most interesting moment I had was in Japanese class. We were learning how to ask and say our birthdays. I asked R' (from Ireland) his birthday. He said that he had a really unfortunate birthday and he didn't feel right celebrating on the actual day. Then he told me the date... September 11th. The instructor came around and asked us our birthdays, as a test. When she came to R', she gasped at his answer. I was surprised at how profound that day was to people from Ireland and Japan... to any other non-US country. The date has such weight because the event is referred to by its date. For example, people are less familiar with the date of the bombing of Pearl Harbor so to name it would not have the same impact, etc. 


According to C' and N', both Brits, M' told them he was especially trying to exaggerate his "Britishness" for me. He fulfilled the stereotype of the modern British gentleman. I'm not use to folks standing at my approach and pulling out my chairs. This was also balanced by the gesture being followed with insults.  


The Germans told me I was "quiet for an American" and then emphasized that they meant it as a complement. 


I was sad when orientation ended and we all went to our separate destinations. Thankfully, K' is also at my university. M' is also near-by.
Some of the others at orientation. We were sharing the home-make ume-shu (plum wine/ sake) my host family gave me. 

--

The international experience not only continued but increased upon my reaching Nagoya. K' has a coworker, J', who invited us to a bi-weekly pub gathering. At this Friday night bar gathering, I met people from Kenya, Sweden, Iran, Bulgaria, Poland, Venezuela, Latvia, France, India, Indonesia, USA and Japan. One of the guys from the US is from Tempe. He was like a piece of home amusingly among the foreign. I have never met so many people from so many countries. It has been really amazing. When I return, I want to find a way to continue interacting with international students.

At the bar, K' and I made a friend from Japan. She offered to be our tour guide the following day. She is incredibly sweet. Making random friends, in random bars, and traveling around the city with them. What a crazy, amazing experience.
Amazing lunch in downtown Nagoya


Sunday, June 24, 2012

Scary bugs here!

Centipedes are among the CREEPIEST insects, in my opinion. In the Southwest US, I had a large fear of them and their creepy poisonous legs. Thus far, I have had two encounters with centipedes in Japan. The first was on the beach, where a giant centipede crawled over my sandaled foot. It felt like little pin pricks where it walked. I kicked it off, without it having attacked me.

My second encounter was not so easy. A centipede fell on my neck, in a bar. I didn't know what it was but screamed at the sharp pain and reached for whatever it was and flung it to the ground. Unfortunately, this also resulted in a more vicious attach of it pinchers on my neck and finger as it wrapped around both to try and hold on. I couldn't hold my drink with my right hand because using the shoulder muscles was too painful. The night continued with some regional shooting pain. You could see the points of penetration but there was no other significant reaction. The bar tender gave me an ice cube. Personally, I think he should have given me a free drink.

If there was such a thing as omens and reading them, I would think this repetition would be a bad one....

Saturday, June 23, 2012

Burning money, seeing sights

I will have to start posting backwards, since I have had so much time without internet or time over the past 11 days.

I'm going out sight-seeing today, with Kim and Mary (two others who have traveled to Nagoya, Japan with me). Yesterday, Kim and I went to see Nagoya's famous castle. It really was spectacular. Much of the property was damaged by bombs/fires in WWII but the main castle is okay and other parts are under repair. The castle is famous for the golden "fish" (half fish, half dragon) that adorn the roof. We saw the castle with Natsuka-san, a very sweet girl we met at a bar on Friday night. She asked us if we needed a tour guide. I told her we did not need a guide but would love to have her company. Cost: 400 yen ticket in, 600 yen train ticket.
Nagoya Castle 

With a famous advertising cartoon- kuwaii = cute

The juxtaposition of ancient and modern

After the castle, we went out for lunch (joining a Polish woman we had also met Friday night as well as a friend/pharmacy school classmate of Natsuka-san). My meal of sashimi tuna and a pureed raw tuna, over rice, was oichii (delicious). I actually ate the entire thing (apparently I was the only one who was able to finish all the food); considering my tiny appetite, I find this a note-worthy event. We also cooked squid and a type of yam over a fire at the table. It was good to finally understand why calamari comes in ring shapes. Cost: 1000 yen.
Lunch with new friends

After lunch, we went shopping in downtown Nagoya. I spent 2950 yen on a sort of moisturizing eye shadow foundation. I am in love with the clothes in Japan. They are so girly and fun. Unfortunately, at >7500yen price point (>$93) I couldn't justify impulse buys. I am going to work through my budget though to see how much I can spend each week.
Temple in the middle of downtown

The city at night

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Foodie adventures in Japan, the beginning.

Things learned: people drive on the left side of the street in Japan.

The commute from Narita to Sokendai, through Tokyo.


There are giant ferris wheels throughout Tokyo

Boat docking area


Goodies at the rest stop :-) 

Vending machines

Georgia in Japan! 

Bought a moon pie :-) 



Dinner options. 
 
We have one of the best views in all of Japan, or so they say.
View of Tokyo bay

View of Tokyo Bay 



Delicious sweets in the convenience store

Pick up your dog's poop

There is a giant fish head! Yes, we ate right off of it. 

Crabs all over our food! 

Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Traveling over the Pacific

 Today I made the commute from Atlanta, GA, USA to Narita/Tokyo, Japan. I left ATL at 9:30am on June 11th and arrived in Japan at 4:30pm on June 12th. After customs, buying a cell phone, and taking a bus, I arrived at the Garden Hotel Narita at 7:35pm.

There are scientists from other countries who are also participating in the JSPS-funded program. I have spent my evening hanging out with folks from England, Germany, France, and Canada. I hope to make some buddies who I can visit in the future!

Passport, plane tickets, and yen


6267 miles to Narita airport from Chicago, IL
...with under-carriage cleaning options. 
Signs in Japanese... trying to find my way to baggage claim
Japan is in its rainy season
A "love hotel" across the street: Hotel Chapel Christmas. I don't believe there was a wedding chapel. 

Saturday, June 9, 2012

My Japanese Mommy and Daddy

We will spend 3 days with a host family, between orientation and the first day of lab work. You cannot become more immersed that that! My family is an older couple. Their daughter lives down the street, with two of her own children. My "mother" has been emailing me about every day! I cannot keep up. She is super-adorable. Check out our communication: 

Hello!! My mu-su-me(daughter) !!! We are your host family during your stay in Japan. We are looking forward to your coming to my house during 3 days. Every summer we take care of a young American girl. I do it for these ten years. So don't worry about your stay at my house. You call us; Too-chan(father) and Kaa-chan(mother). What should I call you? You are very busy in packing your bags and so on. You would like to learn to cook a typical Japanese meals!!!! Everything is okay for you. Please let me know your opinion.... What states of the US do you live? Nagoya University is good. Nagoya is also a historical and nice place for you. Too-chan and Kaa-chan love American so much!!!! I have American friends in Yokosuka and we have the US Navy military base in Yokosuka. So we are familiar with them.... You'll meet them. If you have some guestions, please say..... kaa-chan

--

Hi,my musume! How are you? You are busy in preparing your bags... I sent e-mail the other day. Did you get it? We are waiting for your visit in Yokosuka. We take care of you for 3 days at my house. Perhaps you are very busy for your stay in Japan. Every summer we do it. Don't worry. Too-chan is 70, kaa-chan 67. My daughter is a dancer and teaches in Tokyo. They live near my house in Yokosuka. We have two girl grandchildren. They are 10 and 5 years old. Please come and have a nice stay at my house. Let speak about the place you visit and the food you try and soon... When you come see us, let's speak... Kaa-chan

--

Dear Toochan and Kaachan,

Thank you for opening your home to me. I look forward to meeting you. 

Will it be you and your husband who are living in the house? Are you in/near Nagoya or Tokyo?

Is there anything from the United States that you would like me to bring? Perhaps something that you cannot find in Japan. I am coming from the state of Georgia. 

~Dawn 

--

Hi, again! Thank you so much for your answer. I got your email today. We live near Tokyo and Nagoya is a little far from Yokosuka. Some girls studied at the university near Tokyo before, so every weekend she came to my house and spent with us all. But you live a little far, we can't meet..... We live in Kanagawa, Yokosuka city near Sokendai iniversity; your first university. It takes 15 or 20 minutes from my house. We first meet there on the 14th of this month. You bring us only your smiling face!!!!! Kaa-chan

--

Hi, my musume! How are you? When do you come to Japan? We are waiting for you..You are busy.....   What do you want to eat? And where do you visit?......Kaa-chan 


**I have no idea what I want to eat and visit... Really whatever she thinks best would be great for me**

Friday, June 8, 2012

International Post

Please send me your addresses. You do not need to do it on this blog, but it would be convenient.

Thursday, June 7, 2012

Pre-departure prepartions: a long to-do list

This packing chore is not easy. I do not put much thought into my daily wardrobe here; I have acquired a large selection and just pair colors and patterns in an experimental/fun new way at whim.

For Japan, I will not be able to purchase any replacement clothing items I forget. The largest size they sell in shoes is 6.5 and an American size S is a Japanese size XXL (according to Nike). I am afraid I will forget an essential item. It is kind of like grocery shopping: buying peanut butter and jelly but no bread, or cereal but no milk. It sort of renders the items you did buy useless because they do not create a complete meal. The difference is that you cannot go back to the store and buy more because the store is 7014 miles (a 14hr, 30min plane ride) away.

I have been told that it would not be appropriate to bear shoulders in Japan: that they would stare at you. I have also been told, from one source, that the dress is more formal there so I should wear business casual and pants to work every day, even though it is exceptionally hot and humid and I have to walk over a mile to lab. I was told, from another source, that women there are competitive with their fashion and that if I look too fashionable they will think I am like those women and that I do not take my work seriously. Since I wear skirts and dresses a large fraction of the time, I had to go out and buy pants. I was told, more recently from a third source, you do not see women in jeans in Japan, mostly skirts (which I was happy to hear). Really, I think every environment is different there so there is no hard rule and no easy guidelines.

I have been told that they pay a lot of attention to shoes in Japan. That if your shoes are scuzzy, they will think you are not attentive to detail (which would be very, very bad in a lab). Consequently, I had to search for new shoes and purse because those I had (or lacked) were really run down: scratched, ripped, with pieces having fallen off. I can get by in the US but I do not think it would make a professional impression in Japan.

I have been told that it is important to give gifts in Japan. That I need to make them nice, but not too nice because then they will feel awkward and obligated to give you something in return. You need to make sure that you give people of higher rank/age/respect better gifts and they must be wrapped in a specific way (different colors meaning different things). Perhaps this is like the gift of roses in the United States. There are very specific criteria for wrapping there but apparently they do not expect us non-Japanese folks to meet their standards. Directions: http://relache.hubpages.com/hub/art-of-japanese-gift-wrap
My graduate program has been so kind as to give me some free university swag: cloth bags, card holders (both travel and desktop), pens, markers, water bottles. I also thought it would be fun to include Old Bay seasoning (since we use that in the US on fish and they eat fish for... every meal) and a box of grits (b/c it is cliche for "the south"). I'm certain I will not have enough gifts. It is scary because apparently it is super offensive. I'm fully expecting to offend many people while in Japan.

I feel this pressure to be perfect there and the knowledge that it is so far from possible. The culture is so driven by trying to be perfect. On the plus side, I think they will give me grace to not meet their standards. Hopefully my faults can be balanced off with some positive qualities.

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Dollars to Yen and Yen to FUN

This currency calculator site will become my new favorite friend: http://www.x-rates.com/calculator.html#
The current exchange rate is $1 = 78.12 yen. Not favorable for my American $$$ but advantageous because I am being paid in yen... if there is anything of my stipend left when I finish. I've already committed $2180 of it so I do not expect to come away with anything extra. My lab has been so kind as to set up a temporary bank account for me, so I do not have to store the stipend as a wad of yen under my mattress.

The cost of living is not as horrendous as people say. To rent my apartment (including utilities and "bedclothes"), I will pay 55000 yen/month ($704)... which is comparable to what I pay now and less than what I will pay next year in Atlanta.

They have sent a pdf with pictures of the apartment. I am happy to say I have both a couch and a bed... in one futon. I also have a small desk, which I believe is to also serve as my dining table. I appreciate the duel-function furniture in my 200ft^2 apartment. Amusing to no end: apartments do not come equipped standard with a microwave, the standard cooking convenience is a rice cooker. I'm sure I will come to appreciate that, as one who has never cooked rice before. I hope I can achieve that sticky but not mushy consistency. For a while, my failed attempts at cooking may result in trips to McDonald's or their beloved KFC. Yes, they have KFC everywhere in Japan!

The people with whom I have been organizing my travel and residence have been very helpful. They have provided me with several maps, and floor plans. I have no idea what the maps say, as they are in Japanese... I'm going to guess this will be a common experience along the way.

~IP